Looms & Techniques
In essence, traditional Andean weaving is composed in a grid pattern of thread. The 'y' axis of the grid, or longitudinal threads, are called "the warp", and the 'x' axis, or latitudinal threads, are called "the weft". The vast majority of Andean weaving is "warp- faced", which means that only the warp threads compose the visible portion of the pattern, while the role of the weft is mainly to control which threads of the warp are held up or down in each pass along the 'x' axis. With each pass of the weft, it is beaten into place with a small pointed bone tool called 'the beater' or 'ruki'. The beating process does a great deal to determine the density of the overall finished product.
“...it is the warp that determines the visible colour structure and artistic character of the piece.”
On the other hand, it is the warp that determines the visible colour structure and artistic character of the piece. Thus, the interwoven warp and weft work in tandem to form the eventual finished weaving.
Put simply, a loom is a structure designed to hold the warp in tension and hold a selection of warp threads up or down to facilitate the passing of the weft between them. In the creation of tradition Andean textiles, only the simplest of looms are used; consisting of little more than sticks, straps, and strings. Materials which could easily be found or constructed have sufficed to make looms in the Andes for a millennia.
- Looms
- Techniques
A diagram of a simple backstrap loom, based on the wonderful illustration in Guatamalan Textiles Today, by Marylyn Anderson, page 52. Note that there are very few threads here, and the heddles are greatly oversized for illustration purposes.
The Backstrap Loom
Is an elegant tool in its simplicity, effectiveness, and portability. The loom is made up of nine core parts, with a certain amount of variation in the make-up of the loom, depending on region and the needs of the specific project.First, a rope (A), is attached to both ends of the warp bar (B), which is simply a heavy piece of wood. The rope is secured to a post or other stationary object. The warp, or vertical threads are wound along the length of the loom between two such bars (B and H); one at each end. The shed string (C) helps to keep the threads of the loom from tangling when this portable loom is set up or taken down, and hangs loosely on the upper part of the warp, and does not play a role in the weaving. The fact that the warp threads are wrapped around and around the upper and lower warp bars, creates 'top threads', and 'bottom threads'. Space is created between the top and bottom threads, and this space is called a shed. The shed is created using the shed stick (D) and the heddle stick (E). The heddle stick is wound with string loops (heddles) that reach down, through the top threads and loop around each of the bottom threads of the warp.
When the weaver lifts up on the heddle stick, the bottom threads are pulled up above the top threads, creating a shed. The weaver then passes the shuttle or bobbin (G), which carries threads horizontally, creating what's called the weft. Once the shuttle has passed through, the batten (F) is used the push the horizontal weft thread into place and the the beater (J) (often made of a bone), is used to beat the thread tightly into place. Then the shed stick is grabbed on each end and pulled back toward the weaver, pushing the bottom threads which are attached to the heddles, back down below the top threads, thus creating a new shed, allowing a space for the shuttle to pass through again.
The weft thread is battened down and beaten, and the process is repeated over and over as the weaving progresses. The warp bar closest to the weaver (H) is used to roll the completed portion of the weaving onto, keeping it out of the way. The backstrap (I) is fastened to that warp bar and passes around of the back of the weaver, who usually kneels on the ground to weave. Using her body weight, she can control the tension of the warp between herself and the stationary object which the rope at the other end is fastened to.
